Cindy shares…

Ideas and the best of Baja!



Black Mole from Oaxaca (Mole Negro de Oaxaca)

By Juliann Esquivel


8 large dried chile mulatos, you will have to go to a Mexican market where these are sold.

8 large dried pasilla or ancho chiles. if you live in California, Texas, Miami, New York, or Chicago it should not be too hard to find these dried chile peppers

4 large dried guajillo chiles

6/8 Tbsp. lard or corn oil, for those who have health reasons

1/2 c slivered almonds, toasted lightly

1/2 c dark raisins

1/4 c pumpkin seeds, toasted lightly

1/4 c pecans, in pieces, toasted lightly

1/4 c peanuts with skins if possible, not the shells toasted lightly, can be salted

4 slice challah bread or any egg bread, toasted and torn in pieces

1/4 c sesame seeds, toasted lightly, save a tablespoon to a side.

1/4 tsp dried thyme

1/4 tsp dried marjoram

1/4 tsp dried Mexican oregano if possible if not possible then the other oregano

4 medium avocado leaves. optional since it is hard to get fresh avocado leaves.

1 1/2 small sticks cinnamon or ground cinnamon about 2 level tsps.

1/4 tsp ground star anise or ground seed anise

2 small cloves, just two whole cloves

1 tsp cumin seeds or ground cumin

3 small black peppercorns, whole

2 large plantains ripe sliced, can buy Goya frozen fried plantains

1 large tomato roasted, no need to seed or peel

3 large tomatillos, quartered & roasted

5 clove garlic roasted

1 medium onion roasted

10/12 c rich homemade chicken broth. use homemade, best if you make the day before

8/10 large pieces of cooked chicken or turkey

1 1/2 Tbsp. perhaps a tad bit more sugar

2 large tablets Mexican chocolate there is one called abuelitas chocolate, this is a special chocolate that is mixed with cinnamon, almonds, & vanilla

2 Tbsp. salt or to your taste

1 c flour

2 medium corn tortillas fried crispy golden careful not to scorch


First the day before making your mole you will need to make a rich chicken stock. Cook two chickens cut into pieces, in a deep heavy pot cover pieces with cold water add a medium onion, some garlic cloves a little salt and some garlic powder cover on medium flame and cook for about 1 1/2 hours. Ensure you have at least 12 cups of good rich broth. When chicken is done take out pieces and put into a separate pan let cool & cover and refrigerate for the next day. Do not overcook the chicken you want tender nice pieces, not chicken falling off the bone. When broth cools strain and refrigerate. All of the ingredients for this broth are in addition to what is on the sauce ingredient list above. Next day skim of the fat from the top and put on back burner until ready to use.

Clean the dried chilies with a damp cloth. Open the chiles by making a slit and removing the stem, seeds and membranes. Be sure to get all of the seeds out. They will cause you sauce to be bitter. After cleaning all of the dried chilies put into a sauce pan cover with cold water and put on medium flame let the chilies begin to boil for 5 minutes. Then shut off heat and let steep in this water for 10 more minutes. Make sure you have the extractor or ventilator on over the stove when doing this. Chile fumes can be strong. After the chilies have soaked for 10 minutes remove to a blender and with a little of the soaking water blend down to a puree. (Do not throw the remaining soaking water away Save it you will need it later). Take out chile puree and set aside in a separate bowl.

On a cookie sheet place your onion cut in half cut side down, tomatillos cut side down, the tomato leave whole but turn once or twice while roasting. Four peeled garlic cloves all to roast under the broiler. Do not let veggies char only to roast until somewhat brown, keep checking to make sure your veggies do not burn. Turn tomato just to get some nice browning spots. This should take about 4/5 minutes under the broiler. Some people do on a griddle but it’s faster under the broiler. Remove veggies and puree everything in the blender. everything must be completely pureed. Set aside in a separate dish.

In a cast iron pan if available or a heavy large fry pan heat 1 tablespoon lard or oil and fry raisins until they puff up and brown a bit again I can’t begin to remind do not scorch or burn the raisins. Remove the raisins and set aside. Add a little more lard or oil and fry gently the almonds, pecans, and the peanuts frying for five minutes on a medium to low flame careful not to burn. All this takes times you cannot hurry because burning or scorching any of these nuts will cause your sauce to be bitter. Nuts should be a golden brown. Remove nuts and set aside. Next in the same frying pan add a little more lard or oil and fry your torn bread pieces lightly then put bread in the oven for about ten minutes to toast a bit. After 10 minutes remove bread from oven. Next in that same frying pan cut your ripe plantains in small pieces and fry in oil or lard until golden. Remove the plantains to a separate pan. Last fry the tortilla in a little bit more oil or lard until crispy again being careful not to burn. Remove fried tortilla to bread pan. Heat another heavy fry pan no oil or lard please. Keep heat down on medium low Add your spices to toast sesame seeds, cinnamon sticks anise, cloves, cumin seeds, black peppercorns and pumpkin seeds slowly. Toast until they are a fragrant do not burn or scorch. Put into a spice grinder or coffee grinder and pulse until totally ground to a powder. Note if you do not have whole cumin seeds then add ground cumin powder to your mixture at the end after you have pulsed your spices. Next add your powdered spices to the just ground spices referring to the oregano, thyme and marjoram.

At this time start to heat your chicken broth. When hot reduce to a simmer you don’t want it to boil. Place the ground spices, the pureed veggies, the fried plantains, and a cup of chicken broth and blend into a smooth paste. Place in a bowl and set aside. Next place the bread, tortilla, and a little more broth and blend into a puree. Add some of the pureed chiles and continue to blend everything in little batches until all the bread, tortilla mixture is pureed and mixed with the chile puree Everything should be very well incorporated. Next put the nuts, remaining 2 cloves garlic, raisins and chocolate in the blender add a little of the water (about 1/2 cup) from the soaked chiles and blend to a smooth paste. By this time all of your ingredients should be well blended in a smooth paste or pureed except for the flour and sugar. Mix all of your pureed ingredients together. The bread and chiles, the veggies, the spices the nuts and chocolate mixture. Everything mix really good. Taste for salt seasoning. (I have left out the avocado leaves because this is very hard for some to find. If you are close to a location that has fresh avocado leaves wash four and put aside for one of the final steps.

In a deep heavy pot heat some more lard or oil, add the flour and begin to make a roux. Roux should be sautéed to a golden brown then add about 2 cups of all your pureed mixture. With a large whisk begin to mix roux with the puree mixture. Your mixture will begin to get thick and be hard to stir. Start adding 2 or three cupful of hot chicken broth and whisking constantly until you have a nice consistency then add all of the remaining pureed mixture and about 8/10 cupful of the chicken broth. Keep stirring with the whisk until you have a smooth sauce. Taste to see if it has enough salt. If it is a little bitter add the sugar a little at a time. Each time tasting to see if the bitterness is gone. Your sauce should be savory, and spicy not sweet. If you have the avocado leaves now you add them to the sauce whole not cut with your cooked chicken pieces from which you made your broth. Simmer mole sauce and chicken on low flame for about 45 minutes. If sauce is too thick add more chicken broth. Remove avocado leaves and discard. Serve Mole and chicken with Mexican rice and warm tortillas. Sprinkle a few toasted sesame seeds over the mole when serving. I have the recipe posted for Mexican rice. I will be making this mole this weekend and will post the picture of the finished dish. This is not an easy dish. Mole Negro is a labor intensive and the most arduous of all the mole recipes. It is done in steps and takes patience. The reward is a melt in your mouth sauce and chicken that few have a chance to experience here in the U.S. Note: Do not use any other chocolate except the Mexican chocolate your mole will lose its character & notoriety it is famous for. Mexican chocolate can be found in the Latin food section of your supermarket. Enjoy.



8 – 10 pound bone-in pork shoulder*
2 tablespoons neutral-tasting oil
1 teaspoon chile powder
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon cumin
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, chopped
Kosher salt
*or 6-8 pound boneless pork shoulder


Cut you pork shoulder in large pieces, very approximately 4-5 inches. Remove excess fat. Season the pork generously on all sides with Kosher salt and refrigerate overnight. (You can skip the overnight part if needed, but I think it helps. At the very least, make sure to salt the pork before the next step).
Preheat your oven to 350°F.
In a large pot (I used my dutch oven), heat the oil over medium-high heat. Once hot, sear pork shoulder on all sides until deep golden brown, approximately 3-4 minutes per side. If your pot is to small to cook all the pork at one time in a single layer, sear in two batches.
Remove browned pork from the pot and use a paper towel to blot away excess grease. Pour in 1 cup of water and use a wooden spoon to scrap up all the browned bits on the bottom of your pot.
Stir in chile powder, ancho chile powder, bay leaves, cumin, garlic, onion, and a big pinch of salt. Return all the pork to your pot and add enough water so that it submerges ⅔ of the pork.
Place uncovered pot in the oven for 3 to 3½ hours, turning the pork a couple times throughout the braising process. Pork is done when almost all of the liquid is evaporated and the meat literally falls apart as you try to pick it up with a fork.
Remove bay leaves and discard. Shred meat with two forks or allow to cool a bit and shred with your fingers. Discard any visible big chunks of fat.
If serving right away: Discard any excess braising liquid left in pot with a large spoon. Return pot to oven, turning shredded pork occasionally, until the pork is as crispy and caramelized as you want it.
If making ahead: Remove pork from pan, let cool completely and refrigerate for up to a few days. Alternatively, you can wrap shredded pork in foil and then seal in a ziploc bag and freeze for several weeks. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator and reheat in 350°F oven wrapped in foil placed on a baking sheet. Once pork is heated through, unwrap foil and let pork get all crispy and caramelized if desired.


In Mexico, Capirotada is a traditional dessert similar to a bread pudding that is usually eaten during the Lenten period.

Capirotada has a very long history. Recipes were recorded by the Holy Office of the Spanish Inquisition in the mid-17th century and can still be found in the archives there to this day. It is typically made from ingredients in common use in Spain at the time of the Conquest. Some New World touches were added along the way, and it’s popular to this day throughout the Hispanic world.

The list of variations in the traditional Capirotada recipe is enormous. Every Mexican cook will have an own version.


  • 6 day-old bolillos or French bread, torn in ½-inch pieces
  • 1/3 cup butter, softened
  • 4 cups water
  • 2 8-ounce piloncillo cones
  • 4-inch cinnamon stick
  • 3 cloves
  • 1 cup sweetened coconut, shredded
  • 1/3 cup raw peanuts, peeled
  • 10 dried figs, sliced in rounds
  • 10 dried apricots, quartered
  • 1/3 cup guava paste, sliced in ½-inch pieces
  • 1 cup Mozzarella cheese (or any melting cheese such as Munster or Oaxaca), shredded
  • 4 tablespoons colorful sprinkles or grajeas (nonpareils)


  1. On a large baking sheet, evenly distribute bread pieces. Toast under broiler for 5-7 minutes until lightly browned.
  2. Preheat oven to 350° F.
  3. Butter a 12×12-inch or 9×13-inch baking dish.
  4. In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine water, piloncillo cones, cinnamon stick and cloves. Bring to a boil then decrease heat and simmer until piloncillo cones melt liquid turns into a slightly thickened syrup. Remove cinnamon sticks and cloves.
  5. Arrange a third of bread pieces on bottom of buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with one-third of shredded coconut, one-third of peanuts, one-third dried figs, one-third dried apricots, one-third guava paste, one-third cheese and drizzle one-third of the syrup. Repeat until all ingredients have been used. If any syrup is left over, pour evenly over layers.
  6. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes or until golden and cheese has melted. Garnish with sprinkles and serve.

Pork and/ or Beef Tamales

Recipe Source: Maria E. Salazar
Required Time: 2 days

Ingredients (using 6 pounds of meat makes about 10 dozen tamales and will take over a large American freezer, so feel free to cut this recipe in half or more, but don’t decrease onions or garlic)

*3 pounds’ pork roast

*3 pounds’ beef roast

*2 large onions

*4 cloves garlic

*1/3 to ½ cup chili powder or more (depends on heat of chili powder and spice tolerance of tamal eaters)




*8 cups masa harina

*2 cups shortening or lard

*Corn husks (2-3 packages for full recipe)

 Pork and/ or Beef Tamales

  1. Cook meat (pork or beef, or both in separate pots) in a large pot of water (or in a slow- cooker filled with water) with an onion, 2 garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon of chili powder, salt and pepper. Cook for the day, 4 hours minimum. The more broth you can generate from the meat, the better!

  2. After the meat is cooked (so that it falls apart and shreds easily), remove from pot, set aside to cool, and puree the onion and garlic with the broth. Season broth mixture to taste with chili powder and salt.

  3. Shred meat finely with two forks (you can even chop it after shredding), and store covered in refrigerator separately from broth.

  4. Soak corn husks in water overnight.

  5. Rinse and clean corn husks thoroughly. Drain well and pat dry.

  6. Season shredded meat with chili powder, salt, and cumin (optional) to taste. As you season the meat, add a small amount of broth to moisten meat, but it should not be runny.

  7. For every 2 cups of masa harina (meal), add 1/2 cup of shortening or lard, 1tsp. of salt, and enough chili powder to make a pink dough. Add broth mixture a little at a time to masa and mix with your hands to get a smooth, spreadable consistency. If you run out of broth, you can use hot water, but you will wish you had plenty of broth. (If you use about 6 pounds of meat, you will likely use about 8 cups of masa harina in total).

  8. Assemble the tamales: spread masa about 1/8-inch-thick on corn husk with fingers, leaving about ½ inch border along the sides and 2-inch border along the top and bottom of husk. Use about 2 Tbsp. of shredded meat to fill the tamal (like a cigar). Fold sides until they just overlap, fold narrow end under, and place tamal folded side down. Tear thin strips of the corn husks to tie a “little belt” around each tamal to keep it secure. Although this isn’t necessary, it does look the nicest and makes each tamal a little gift to be opened.

  9. To cook, steam fresh tamales for 15 minutes or until masa is no longer sticky.

  10. Store in freezer. Steam frozen tamales for 20 minutes. (This is a real treat a few days or a few weeks later.

Copyright Nicole Stich

Paul Greenberg: The four fish we’re overeating — and what to eat instead

I stunk at sports. I didn’t like to play them, I didn’t like to watch them. So this is what I did. I went fishing. And for all of my growing up I fished on the shores of Connecticut, and these are the creatures that I saw on a regular basis. But after I grew up and went to college, and I came home in the early 90’s, this is what I found. My team had shrunk. It was like literally having your roster devastated. And as I sort of looked into that, from a very personal point of view as a fisherman, I started to kind of figure out, well, what was the rest of the world thinking about it?

First place I started to look was fish markets. And when I went to fish markets, in spite of where I was — whether I was in North Carolina, or Paris, or London, or wherever — I kept seeing this weirdly repeating trope of four creatures, again and again — on the menus, on ice — shrimp, tuna, salmon and cod. And I thought this was pretty strange, and as I looked at it, I was wondering, did anyone else notice this sort of shrinking of the market?

Well, when I looked into it, I realized that people didn’t look at it as their team. Ordinary people, the way they looked at seafood was like this. It’s not an unusual human characteristic to reduce the natural world down to very few elements. We did it before, 10,000 years ago, when we came out of our caves. If you look at fire pits from 10,000 years ago, you’ll see raccoons, you’ll see, you know, wolves, you’ll see all kinds of different creatures. But if you telescope to the age of — you know, 2,000 years ago, you’ll see these four mammals: pigs, cows, sheep and goats. It’s true of birds, too. You look at the menus in New York City restaurants 150 years ago, 200 years ago, you’ll see snipe, woodcock, grouse, dozens of ducks, dozens of geese. But telescope ahead to the age of modern animal husbandry, and you’ll see four: turkeys, ducks, chicken and geese.

So it makes sense that we’ve headed in this direction. But how have we headed in this direction? Well … first it’s a very, very new problem. This is the way we’ve been fishing the oceans over the last 50 years. World War II was a tremendous incentive to arm ourselves in a war against fish. All of the technology that we perfected during World War II — sonar, lightweight polymers — all these things were redirected towards fish. And so you see this tremendous buildup in fishing capacity, quadrupling in the course of time, from the end of World War II to the present time. And right now that means we’re taking between 80 and 90 million metric tons out of the sea every year. That’s the equivalent of the human weight of China taken out of the sea every year. And it’s no coincidence that I use China as the example because China is now the largest fishing nation in the world.

Well, that’s only half the story. The other half of the story is this incredible boom in fish farming and aquaculture, which is now, only in the last year or two, starting to exceed the amount of wild fish that we produce. So that if you add wild fish and farmed fish together, you get the equivalent of two Chinas created from the ocean each and every year. And again, it’s not a coincidence that I use China as the example, because China, in addition to being the biggest catcher of fish, is also the biggest farmer of fish.

So let’s look though at the four choices we are making right now. The first one — by far the most consumed seafood in America and in much of the West, is shrimp. Shrimp in the wild — as a wild product — is a terrible product. 5, 10, 15 pounds of wild fish are regularly killed to bring one pound of shrimp to the market. They’re also incredibly fuel inefficient to bring to the market. In a recent study that was produced out of Dalhousie University, it was found that dragging for shrimp is one of the most carbon-intensive ways of fishing that you can find.

So you can farm them, and people do farm them, and they farm them a lot in this very area. Problem is … the place where you farm shrimp is in these wild habitats — in mangrove forests. Now look at those lovely roots coming down. Those are the things that hold soil together, protect coasts, create habitats for all sorts of young fish, young shrimp, all sorts of things that are important to this environment. Well, this is what happens to a lot of coastal mangrove forests. We’ve lost millions of acres of coastal mangroves over the last 30 or 40 years. That rate of destruction has slowed, but we’re still in a major mangrove deficit.

The other thing that’s going on here is a phenomenon that the filmmaker Mark Benjamin called “Grinding Nemo.” This phenomenon is very, very relevant to anything that you’ve ever seen on a tropical reef. Because what’s going on right now, we have shrimp draggers dragging for shrimp, catching a huge amount of bycatch, that bycatch in turn gets ground up and turned into shrimp food. And sometimes, many of these vessels — manned by slaves — are catching these so-called “trash fish,” fish that we would love to see on a reef, grinding them up and turning them into shrimp feed — an ecosystem literally eating itself and spitting out shrimp.

The next most consumed seafood in America, and also throughout the West, is tuna. So tuna is this ultimate global fish. These huge management areas have to be observed in order for tuna to be well managed. Our own management area, called a Regional Fisheries Management Organization, is called ICCAT, the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas. The great naturalist Carl Safina once called it, “The International Conspiracy to Catch all the Tunas.” Of course we’ve seen incredible improvement in ICCAT in the last few years, there is total room for improvement, but it remains to be said that tuna is a global fish, and to manage it, we have to manage the globe.

Well, we could also try to grow tuna but tuna is a spectacularly bad animal for aquaculture. Many people don’t know this but tuna are warm-blooded. They can heat their bodies 20 degrees above ambient temperature, they can swim at over 40 miles an hour. So that pretty much eliminates all the advantages of farming a fish, right? A farmed fish is — or a fish is cold-blooded, it doesn’t move too much. That’s a great thing for growing protein. But if you’ve got this crazy, wild creature that swims at 40 miles an hour and heats its blood — not a great candidate for aquaculture.

The next creature — most consumed seafood in America and throughout the West — is salmon. Now salmon got its plundering, too, but it didn’t really necessarily happen through fishing. This is my home state of Connecticut. Connecticut used to be home to a lot of wild salmon. But if you look at this map of Connecticut, every dot on that map is a dam. There are over 3,000 dams in the state of Connecticut. I often say this is why people in Connecticut are so uptight —

If somebody could just unblock Connecticut’s chi, I feel that we could have an infinitely better world. But I made this particular comment at a convention once of national parks officers, and this guy from North Carolina sidled up to me, he says, “You know, you oughtn’t be so hard on your Connecticut, cause we here in North Carolina, we got 35,000 dams.” So it’s a national epidemic, it’s an international epidemic. And there are dams everywhere, and these are precisely the things that stop wild salmon from reaching their spawning grounds.

So as a result, we’ve turned to aquaculture, and salmon is one the most successful, at least from a numbers point of view. When they first started farming salmon, it could take as many as six pounds of wild fish to make a single pound of salmon. The industry has, to its credit, greatly improved. They’ve gotten it below two to one, although it’s a little bit of a cheat because if you look at the way aquaculture feed is produced, they’re measuring pellets — pounds of pellets per pound of salmon. Those pellets are in turn reduced fish. So the actual — what’s called the FIFO, the fish in and the fish out — kind of hard to say. But in any case, credit to the industry, it has lowered the amount of fish per pound of salmon.

Problem is we’ve also gone crazy with the amount of salmon that we’re producing. Aquaculture is the fastest growing food system on the planet. It’s growing at something like seven percent per year. And so even though we’re doing less per fish to bring it to the market, we’re still killing a lot of these little fish.

And it’s not just fish that we’re feeding fish to, we’re also feeding fish to chickens and pigs. So we’ve got chickens and they’re eating fish, but weirdly, we also have fish that are eating chickens. Because the byproducts of chickens — feathers, blood, bone — get ground up and fed to fish. So I often wonder, is there a fish that ate a chicken that ate a fish? It’s sort of a reworking of the chicken and egg thing. Anyway —

All together, though, it results in a terrible mess. What you’re talking about is something between 20 and 30 million metric tons of wild creatures that are taken from the ocean and used and ground up. That’s the equivalent of a third of a China, or of an entire United States of humans that’s taken out of the sea each and every year.

The last of the four is a kind of amorphous thing. It’s what the industry calls “whitefish.” There are many fish that get cycled into this whitefish thing but the way to kind of tell the story, I think, is through that classic piece of American culinary innovation, the Filet-O-Fish sandwich. So the Filet-O-Fish sandwich actually started as halibut. And it started because a local franchise owner found that when he served his McDonald’s on Friday, nobody came. Because it was a Catholic community, they needed fish. So he went to Ray Kroc and he said, “I’m going to bring you a fish sandwich, going to be made out of halibut.” Ray Kroc said, “I don’t think it’s going to work. I want to do a Hula Burger, and there’s going to be a slice of pineapple on a bun. But let’s do this, let’s have a bet. Whosever sandwich sells more, that will be the winning sandwich.” Well, it’s kind of sad for the ocean that the Hula Burger didn’t win. So he made his halibut sandwich. Unfortunately though, the sandwich came in at 30 cents. Ray wanted the sandwich to come in at 25 cents, so he turned to Atlantic cod. We all know what happened to Atlantic cod in New England.

So now the Filet-O-Fish sandwich is made out of Alaska pollock, it’s the largest fin fish fishery in the United States, 2 to 3 billion pounds of fish taken out of the sea every single year. If we go through the pollock, the next choice is probably going to be tilapia. Tilapia is one of those fish nobody ever heard of 20 years ago. It’s actually a very efficient converter of plant protein into animal protein, and it’s been a godsend to the third world. It’s actually a tremendously sustainable solution, it goes from an egg to an adult in nine months. The problem is that when you look about the West, it doesn’t do what the West wants it to do. It really doesn’t have what’s called an oily fish profile. It doesn’t have the EPA and DHA omega-3s that we all think are going to make us live forever.

So what do we do? I mean, first of all, what about this poor fish, the clupeids? The fish that represent a huge part of that 20 to 30 million metric tons. Well, one possibility that a lot of conservationists have raised is could we eat them? Could we eat them directly instead of feeding them to salmon? There are arguments for it. They are tremendously fuel efficient to bring to market, a fraction of the fuel cost of say, shrimp, and at the very top of the carbon efficiency scale. They also are omega-3 rich, a great source for EPA and DHA. So that is a potential. And if we were to go down that route what I would say is, instead of paying a few bucks a pound — or a few bucks a ton, really — and making it into aquafeed, could we halve the catch and double the price for the fishermen and make that our way of treating these particular fish?

Other possibility though, which is much more interesting, is looking at bivalves, particularly mussels. Now, mussels are very high in EPA and DHA, they’re similar to canned tuna. They’re also extremely fuel efficient. To bring a pound of mussels to market is about a thirtieth of the carbon as required to bring beef to market. They require no forage fish, they actually get their omega-3s by filtering the water of microalgae. In fact, that’s where omega-3s come from, they don’t come from fish. Microalgae make the omega-3s, they’re only bioconcentrated in fish.

Mussels and other bivalves do tremendous amounts of water filtration. A single mussel can filter dozens of gallons every single day. And this is incredibly important when we look at the world. Right now, nitrification, overuse of phosphates in our waterways are causing tremendous algal blooms. Over 400 new dead zones have been created in the last 20 years, tremendous sources of marine life death.

We also could look at not a fish at all. We could look at a vegetable. We could look at seaweed, the kelps, all these different varieties of things that can be high in omega-3s, can be high in proteins, tremendously good things. They filter the water just like mussels do. And weirdly enough, it turns out that you can actually feed this to cows. Now, I’m not a big fan of cattle. But if you wanted to keep growing cattle in a time and place where water resources are limited, you’re growing seaweed in the water, you don’t have to water it — major consideration.

And the last fish is a question mark. We have the ability to create aquacultured fish that creates a net gain of marine protein for us. This creature would have to be vegetarian, it would have to be fast growing, it would have to be adaptable to a changing climate and it would have to have that oily fish profile, that EPA, DHA, omega-3 fatty acid profile that we’re looking for.

This exists kind of on paper. I have been reporting on these subjects for 15 years. Every time I do a new story, somebody tells me, “We can do all that. We can do it. We’ve figured it all out. We can produce a fish that’s a net gain of marine protein and has omega-3s.” Great. It doesn’t seem to be getting scaled up. It is time to scale this up. If we do, 30 million metric tons of seafood, a third of the world catch, stays in the water.

So I guess what I’m saying is this is what we’ve been going with. We tend to go with our appetites rather than our minds. But if we went with this, or some configuration of it, we might have a little more of this.

Chiles en Nogada

The traditional chile en nogada is from Puebla; it is tied to the independence of this country since it is said they were prepared for the first time to entertain the emperor Agustín de Iturbide when he came to the city after his naming as Agustín I. This dish is a source of pride for the inhabitants of the state of Puebla. (Wikipedia)
I suggest you have it at least once, trust me you wont regret it.


8 oz. pork loin

2 cloves garlic, peeled, plus 2 finely chopped

1 large white onion, halved

Kosher salt, to taste

2 tbsp. lard (available at or canola oil

2 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

3 plum tomatoes, cored, peeled, and finely chopped

2 tbsp. raisins

2 tbsp. finely chopped blanched almonds

½ Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and finely chopped

½ pear, peeled, cored, and finely chopped

½ peach, peeled, pitted, and finely chopped

½ medium ripe plantain or banana, peeled and finely chopped.


4 oz. walnuts

½ cup milk

6 oz. queso fresco (available at

1 cup crema (available at or sour cream

2 tbsp. sherry

3 tbsp. sugar

Kosher salt, to taste


12 poblano chiles

2 cups canola oil, for frying

1 cup flour

5 eggs, separated

2 tbsp. kosher salt

1 tbsp. distilled white vinegar

Seeds of 1 pomegranate


  1. Make the filling: Bring pork, 2 whole cloves garlic, half the onion, and 2 cups water to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat; season with salt, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, covered, until pork is tender, about 1 hour. Transfer pork to a cutting board, and pour cooking liquid through a fine strainer into a bowl; reserve ½ cup cooking liquid, and discard any remaining along with solids. Once cool, finely chop pork, and set aside with cooking liquid. Return saucepan to medium-high heat, and add lard; finely chop remaining onion, and add to pan along with minced garlic, and cook, stirring, until soft, about 8 minutes. Add parsley and tomatoes, and cook, stirring, until tomatoes break down, about 5 minutes. Return pork and cooking liquid to pan along with raisins, almonds, apple, pear, peach, and plantain, and cook, stirring occasionally, until fruit is cooked through and mixture is thick, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and season with salt; set aside.
  2. Make the walnut sauce: Place walnuts in a 2-qt. saucepan, and cover with water; bring to a boil, and cook for 5 minutes. Drain, and use a stiff-bristled brush to peel away most of the skin from walnuts; set aside. Bring milk to just under a boil in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat, and add walnuts; let sit, covered, to soften nuts, about 30 minutes. Transfer walnuts and milk to a blender along with queso fresco, crema, sherry, and sugar, and puree until very smooth and thick, at least 2 minutes. Season with salt, and transfer to a bowl; cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
  3. For the chiles: Heat broiler to high. Place poblano chiles on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil, turning, until blackened all over, about 20 minutes. Transfer chiles to a bowl, and let cool. Peel and discard skins, stems, and seeds, and cut a slit down the length of each chile. Remove and discard seeds and ribs, keeping chile intact. Place about 2-3 tbsp. filling inside each chile, and close chile around filling to form a tight roll. Refrigerate until ready to use.
  4. Heat oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, place flour on a shallow plate, and set aside. Beat egg whites in a bowl until soft peaks form; whisk in egg yolks, salt, and vinegar. Working in batches, dredge each chile in flour, shaking off excess, and then coat in egg batter. Place in oil, and fry, flipping once, until golden brown and filling is heated through, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chiles to a wire rack to drain. Transfer to serving plates, and spoon walnut sauce over chiles to cover completely; sprinkle with pomegranate seeds before serving.

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